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First
Ascent 
North of McBride in Kakwa
Provincial Park lies Mount Dimsdale. From the
south, the peak looks like an imposing obelisk.
It has long tempted mountaineers.
On August 8, 2001 Lyle Knight,
an Engineering Technician at the Lillooet Forest
District, and Kevin Taylor, a faller in the
McBride area, climbed to the summit of Mount
Dimsdale. It was the first recorded ascent of the
3,200-metre peak in the Northern Rockies.
At 10:00 a.m., in clear
sunshine, a helicopter dropped the pair on a
glacier at the base of the peak. Upon their
arrival, Lyle and Kevin immediately set about the
task of climbing the mountain. The trip involved
a 300m elevation gain up a steep snow slope
followed by four technical pitches of
rope-climbing to reach the summit. They reached
the summit by 2:30 p.m., but lingered only long
enough to take a few quick pictures and build a
cairn marking the accomplishment of being the
first to reach the summit. "At 1:30 we very
nearly turned aroundeven though we were
more than two-thirds of the way to the summit.
The weather appeared to be building, with thunder
rumbling in the distance. We didnt want to
be on top in a lightning storm!"
After some quick rappelling,
and an arduous descent back down the snow slope
Kevin and Lyle returned safely to their equipment
cache. They set up camp on the glacier, and
mercifully, the storm kept its distance. After a
quick call home using a satellite phone, they
settled in for a calm clear night. The following
morning dawned clear and hot, and they spent the
morning planning climbing routes of several other
peaks in the vicinity. In the afternoon, the two
departed the glacier, climbing down a major
icefall (like a frozen waterfall) to the tree
line, and spent the next day bushwhacking to
their vehicle on the Walker Creek Forest Service
road.
Congratulations Lyle and Kevin,
on being the first to climb mount Dimsdale, a
first ascent of a major peak is an accomplishment
shared by very few.
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